Saturday, January 12, 2008

of family, fish and foreigners














Home last nite, after 9 days away from Casa Del Bilge Agua. Much to say; much to share. many to thank, my fast loving family, friends that give time and space, and our hosts in sayulita, the Dumonts, muchos gracias Kelly, Connie and Barry.
As my ritual demands, we start with sunrise.
I woke about six, dark windows face an eastern night light, dull and distant as if some god thought to protect us from total blackout. Keep your eyes on that edge, where monsters sit, and this morning the night light fades and I glimpse a sailor's threat in the long webs of pink-bloody vapors climbing from that edge toward the peppered grey skinned buttes nearby. Soaked in sun thousands of feet above me, these fingers of aerial fire out-blaze the night light. Little lights won't protect all of us from everything. Today's monsters are like these crimson creatures above and within: unseen or half-glimpsed, they scare me, my uncertain body, the unmeasured damage. Clouds of red occlude my confidence, limit my good humor and make me feel small and weak. The feeling stays awhile, and I feel sponged in sadness and self pity. But, I sit still and sad through the the color shift: red goes to faint amber, amber towards gold and the buttes now appear like measureless mountains of mica. Fools gold wrings out the sponge and soon the gold sky gives way to white light and warming rays, the promise the gods give for another day of building confidence, enriching humor and stretching the strength of my spirit. Watch the sun rise, and be sure to see all the lights.
The light now shows our casa, our cat at the glass watching a few rabbits outside, inside we are well, now the cat pincushions into the overstuffed crazy patterned chair, and wood stove glows in the next room. Precious sleeping under too many comforters, most of them half tossed off toward my vacant side the bed...she's warm, and more loving and caring than I remember earning. I must have been good some of these years ago.
We've been watching Mexican sunrises for the last week or so. Peg, Mandy, Wes, Alena, Julie, Paul Louis, Normie and I drifted thru mild days, 80' days and nights on the wide patio, feasted on the resident cook's best recipes, lazed in daytime dialogue and discovered that Monday's a banner fishing day in Sayulita. Many joys, many surprizes. Best was my brother, KJ, showing up unexpectedly, just jaunting up the street like the casual surfer he once was. Great idea, KJ, thanks for the extra spice to a lively vacation. I spent most of limited energy at and in la Casa Rana Verde. read 3 books, sun soaked, and slept well. Others walked to town, shopped, snorkeled and swam.
Monday, banner day, look out Jaws, coming to get ya! Or more mundane: we fished. Kurt, Paul, Wes and Marcus. Please know, along with sunrises, fishing is a ritual for me. Eight in the morining, on the soft sloped beach, 24' open boat with bimini and single outboard, fully outfitted with a two life jackets and a nearly mute captain. Ugh,lift boat, again, again, and then we catch the leading edge of the surf and push some more, jump in and head aroung the first rocky point towards the west. "Where we going? Capt." Nando nods his head and pilots us around the corner, idles the motor down and we troll for 2+ hours and nada, nix, no fish...ain't this fun? now, we move quicly to some shallows, a reef maybe 20 miles from Sayulita, a mile of so off-shore. But hey, we catch a mackerel, now two, Wes got the first one, then PK, then Capt. Mute, I object to my brothers and son, "Shouldn't we be doing all the catching?" No time to talk thru the matter, because Capt. fish-boxes four of these foot long fish, and we head off at WOT to where the sea boils with birds, bait fish, and predators, churning the surface to wild salty foam, flashes of iridescence below the boat show large powerful animals annihilating the smaller, slower fish. Capt. Mute, grabs two of our fish, hooks them thru the mouth and tosses both into the boiling waves and moments later, Wes has a strike, off hook quickly, then KJ hooks one better, calls out" got one" and Capt. Mute seems to smile. Kurt, for about 10 minutes, fights and pulls and reels and pulls and reels and pulls up finally, a slack line. Fish was strong and broke off. Frustated and feisty, KJ shakes his head and says things all fishermen say when they lose a good one, "Oh dang". Not.
Out of fish for bait we return to the reef, haul in another four or five bait fish in the next hour and then way off, beyond what we can see, Capt. Mute turns the boat north and we bounce across the swell for 15 mins and cruise right up to a massive boiling sea of drama and death for sea creatures. Many fish, small and large fish flash and fly beneath the bow The large animals inhale countless smaller fish. Wide bodied sea birds dive bomb and do the same and the water is frantic with the contest between dinner and death. Capt. drops in two lines, Wes and I both hook up quickly, we yelp to each other "got one" "got one". His fish flips off a moment later, but mine is firm and powerful on the line,unreeling yard after yard of line. Capt. had actually spoken earlier and told us to count 1-10 before setting the hook, I may have reached 8 1/2 before pulling against the power of this unseen fish; but now, 50 yards away he jumps out of the water and shows his huge beautiful body. Capt Mute calls "got one". "One what," I ask. Que? "Rooster tail, or pescado gallo" he shares in his longest bit of dialogue for the day. Ok. soften the drag, let him run, let him run some more, hell, I'm not letting him run, he is taking me with him in. So the contest continues. I pull and reel, pull and reel, catch a breath, adjust the rod and drag, and so on and so on, for 45 min, till he's exhausted, I'm pretty well exhausted too and I know Paul, Wes and KJ are ready to see what I've caught. The rooster tail finnaly taps out and at the surface appears like a wide wet carpet. Capt Mute, "Whoa, big" To me he looks like a young Moby Dick, white belly to the sky and steel hook deep in his body. Gaffed, Capt. wrestles the rooster tail on board and nods his approval to me. I feel great, great relief for the struggle's end, and great to be with 3 guys who love and support me. That moment I cherish. On the hour long, bumpy return ride, the boat leaked some and Paul failed found a comfort zone for a soft landing on each growing swell we blased thru. I sat facing south, eyes closed and other senses switched to memory building, I dutifully etched the boat's sounds, the salty-spray mist, the voices of my friends sharing congratulations and joy for my success, the joy that is sometimes a ritual for me. I marked that memory well and I can close my eyes right now and be there.
What an adventure. What a vacation, what a nice way to start the new year with family, fun and fishing. Mexican sunrises are bonito. Amor, adios, amigos Marcos

10 comments:

Melanie Ann said...

Gee, what I would give to be able to write so vividly. I feel like I was just free-falling from a thousand feet while reading that blog, because I'm all out of breath now.

Glad to hear about your rituals and your obviously glorious Mexican sunrises. "Keep your eyes on that edge, where monsters sit, and this morning the night light fades and I glimpse a sailor's threat in the long webs of pink-bloody vapors climbing from that edge toward the peppered grey skinned buttes nearby." Who could ever possibly top that? I invite anyone to make an attempt, but only those who are confident enough to accept blatent defeat. Bravo.

Thanks for this post - - it has provided me with a sense of cleansing, as I'm sure sus vacaciones hacieron por tu.

Continued joy and adventures to you, and much love from an admiring student,

Mello

Anonymous said...

Well it's Sunday and another wild day for the family. Hopefully all will be well with Lars, and Em will be able to reschedule her visit.
Thanks for the invite to Mexico Jules. What a treat to spend time with all of you in such a lovely local. The look of surpise/joy on Markie Babie's face (not to mention Peggy's) was worth it alone.
Had a nice day surfing after you all left, the hotel was the perfect. Thanks for your help Wes.
Can't wait for our next adventure.
Love
KJ

Mandy said...

Hi Dad,
I'm at the library, kind of procrastinating... Wes told me he had a great time with you on the boat last night... let's plan our own night out on that glassy lake soon.
love you!
Mandy

sankrum said...

Marcus,

I bow to the clarity of your language. I saw the photos before you added them. You write amazingly, chillingly well.

Thank you for sharing with all of us.

Sharon

Jules said...

Hola mi hermano, Marcus!
It's monday night and I was rethinking our Monday last week in Mexico...you heading off to catch Senor Rooster Tail, us watching for our 4 hombres to return then a dinner made as we watched sunset and drank some brewskies. So gald you and Wesman got out on the boat yesterday. A good break away from the worries about Lars. I've talked with Emily twice today and he's getting lots of sleep with all the meds he's on, porbrecito. They, too, are surrounded by amazing friends as you are, who have come to help in any and all ways...what a gift friends are. So, hope you're up early with the sunrise, I'll check in with you. I know it will be a hard one giving Wes a hug good-bye, add an extra one from me.
Lovingyou from here,
Julie

Nic Nic said...

I woke up early and watched the sunrise today...thought about you and your beautiful descriptions of the sky. Thank you for that.

Cant believe the Fuhrman's have a cat.

Thinking of you guys all the time.

Love, Nic Nic

Alena said...

We're at the Vegas airport now (Wes is typing his comment next to me) and on the way here, stuffed uncomfortably in the back of a shuttle, I thought about how many times I've been through the Virgin River Gorge in the past few months, always my favorite part of the trip back. The goodbye's though, are always my least favorite part of the trip. They make my eyes all warm wet and my lip quiver even as I think about them. But home is on the other end of this airplane ride. With all the inherent joys and quirks and pets and responsibilities I have been avoiding these past three weeks.

I thought about other things on the shuttle. Like the moment we made it to Mexico and saw the beautiful ocean. The taste of that out-of-control Guacamole blending with a Pacifico. Funny, like the smile of a stranger on a cruddy day, it's a beautiful moment that lifts you but you just can't have it again. My mind holds tight to these memories, like a three year old to her teddy bear. I clutch them as a security blanket as I go forward 'cause there's really no other direction to go.

I look a real mess, cryin' at the airport. Miss you already I guess.

Love you and will see you soon,
Alena

-=wtf=- said...

Well, I've been delaying this comment a bit; I suppose I'd rather rub your feet while I can. I really enjoyed this blog. I'm a sucker for a good fish story, even if I know how it's going to turn out (isn't that life?). This one reminded me of a phase I had writing "sky" songs. Lots up there, huh? Everywhere I've been has its own character to the sky, and of all of them, your (AZ-UT)sunrises are the best. Not that there hasn't been competition-- sunsets over cornfields on the way home from jazz contests or the tail-end of sunrises at Brigg's woods (dad always catches daddy-bass). Remember the moon-rainbow on the way to Berklee? It's also impossible to forget hiking in the canyon with a sunset and a moonrise at the same time casting opposing shadows. Last night was a good one, though I did shed a lonely tear after running up the hill to see the epitome of your words sprawled across the sky. I'm glad I get to have this time, the sunrises, sunsets, all of it. I see you in every little bit; half of my eyes are yours. Thanks.

Unknown said...

***** AP PRESS RELEASE ******
Banderas Bay, Mexico

January 19, 2008


Associated Press has just learned, through annonymous sources: of a Puerto Vallarta drug cartel, in the Banderas Bay region, that has been supplying steroids to schools of fish, with the scientific name: Nematistius Pectoralis. In the region they are commonly referred to as: Pez gallo or papagallo. And, here is the states, perhaps most popularly known as "roosterfish". Authorities in the Estado de Jalisco (Jalisco is known for being the birthplace of mariachi music and TEQUILA - after hearing Mariachi music: I'm sure tequila came first) are determined to bring an end to this illegal drug infestation and return the "roosterfish" to a happier and more natural life.
Anyone, who has caught an unusually large (over 5lbs - the maximum weight an adult roosterfish tops out at) roosterfish is being asked to contact authorities with any information that might benefit this investigation. This includes all locals as well as tourists who may have been in the area within the past 30 days and who may have come in contact with a "juiced" roosterfish.
"Anabolic Steroid use by these fish is epidemic and will not be tolerated any longer", local police chief Jose Jimanez (Baseball been bery, bery (sic) good to me) was quoted as saying at a hastily called news conference.
Some of the physical consequences of these fish injecting steroids include:

FOR MALES:
Baldness (They look better bald)
Development of breasts (wow)
Painful erections (Ouch)
Shrinkage of testicles (Yow)
Loss of testicle function(What?)

FOR FEMALES:
Growth of facial and body hair (Boy, sure wouldn't want to see that)
Deepened voice (Never heard that!)
Breast reduction (Huh?)
Enlarged clitoris (Ugh)
Menstrual irregularities (Painful)

Perhaps most widely know as "the Clear" some of the effects to both genders include:

Acne
Jaundice (yellowing of the skin)
Swelling – Fluid retention
AGGRAVATED growth
Increase in bad cholesterol levels
Decrease in good cholesterol levels
Mood swings
Increase in feelings of hostility
Increase in aggressive behavior

According to Captain Jose it is this last side effect: "Increase in aggressive behavior" that is resposible for thousands of roosterfish being caught and depleting the species. Normally, non-steroid abusing roosterfish are quite timid and nearly impossible to catch a glimpse of; let alone catch.
If you have been in contact with any of these "Oversized/Aggresive -pumped up roosterfish, please contact the local authorities in Jalisco Province
And PLEASE- whatever you do: don't eat thease fish.

ali said...

Hi Markie Baby

Wow it sounds like you guys all had an amazing time in Mexico. My dad was telling me all about the food and the fishing. I really wish I could of been there. Isnt real Mexican food the best? I am so glad that all you guys enjoyed yourselves and I really wish I could of been their. I hope to visit you guys sometime this summer! Miss you so much.

Love
Ali